Fugazzi Pizzeria Napoletana

Notes

• On the second floor of Cullinan Sky Mall in Kai Tak. Everything turns on the oven — a bespoke Stefano Ferrara brought over from Naples, and the reason the heat and the moisture behave. The napoletana runs San Marzano tomato, fior di latte, basil and olive oil at a hundred and fifty-eight; there is also a carbonara version with no tomato at all. The room is warm and old-Italian, hung with poster art. Friday and Saturday it runs to one in the morning.