ZOZZONA

Notes

• On Hillwood Road, cooking itameshi — Italian as Japan reads it. Takayuki Kumai spent six years as Carbone's pasta man; his partners are Christopher Mark of Black Sheep and Vidur Yadav of Bengal Brothers. The pasta is rolled fresh every day and comes with a spread of small plates meant to be shared. The maccheroni alla zozzona folds Rome's amatriciana into its carbonara; the tagliolini freddi arrives chilled under a shiso and walnut pesto with marinated squid, and the akami tuna tataki holds its own. Italian wine, sake, highballs and zero-proof cocktails to drink.